The Final Day on the Camino

October 10, 2009

It is a short walk to Santiago de Compostela, our final destination. It is a sad moment; the trip is over, at least the walking part. We time our arrival so that we can attend the mass. It is a zoo. There are so many people there. Not very holy if you ask me. Later I went to see the relic of Santiago. I couldn’t even see it because somebody was standing in front of it. Oh well. The camino is the important part not the relic, cathedral, or the completion. So do you understand this pilgrimage? You probably don’t. I didn’t until I got here. The camino is an historical route where pilgrims from all over Europe travel to pray at the body of Santiago. Santiago is also known as James, James the apostle that was beheaded. Well as the legend goes his body floated in a stone boat to Spain where it was discovered, and people from all over come to pray to Santiago. This pilgrimage goes back to the 10th or 11th century. Recently there has been a real upsurge in its popularity. Tonight we are staying at a parador; this is the second parador that we are staying at. Paradors are converted historical buildings turned into hotels. It is as if Fort Point is transformed into a hotel. They are so unique. This one used to be a hospital for the pilgrims, but hospital like hospitality and some medical care. It is right next to the cathedral. Any closer and I wouldn’t even have to leave my bed to attend mass.

The final dinner is held in a private room in the basement. It is so touching. No one wants the walk to end but we all must go back to our lives before the camino. As difficult the walking can be, many times our real lives are much more difficult. That is why many people do the camino or 88 temple walk over and over. I understand it, so does Emi. But life is not a pilgrimage. I just hope that we can take the knowledge gained from the walks back to our real lives. Thank you Nancy and Jose for a truly remarkable experience.

Day 10 on the Camino

October 9, 2009

This is our longest walk but it was harder yesterday. We walk through the Galician countryside. It is beautiful and the slate covered cottages make me feel like I’m walking through a hobbit story. They are so quaint looking, but I think they’re a bit cool on the inside. Tonight we stayed at Pazo de Andeade, a rual mansion. It is charming but I prefer my own home. Dinner was home cooked style chicken plus many other extras. I didn’t eat very much. My stomach was acting up and had to go light. I think maybe all the wine we are drinking is taking its toll. And talking about drinking, the alcohol here, especially the wine, is good and cheap, a winos paradise.

Day 9 on the Camino

October 8, 2009

This was our toughest day of walking, lots of climbing and descending. Nancy described it as rolling hills but no one agreed. We end in a small town with a large Benedict monastery. Nancy gives an optional tour and all but one go with her. I think it was a mistake. We are all tired and just wanted to go to the hotel. Dinner was huge and we ate till we were stuffed which is not good. Dinner is over past 10 and we need to get up at 7am. It is so terrible to go to bed with a full stomach but this is the routine here in Spain. I don’t know how the people do it. At home Emi and I eat at 6pm. We are of the senior group. (Later we find out people in Spain do not eat their big meal at 8:30. The big meal is at 2pm. 8:30 is like a snack)

Day 6 on the Camino

October 7, 2009

It was a longer day of walking, 12.1 miles. It was also a strange day. At first it was rainy, then it got cold, and at the end the sun came out. It wasn’t comfortable until the end when we reached Molinaseca, the highest point of the camino, 4936 feet.

This walk/tour has been fantastic. Given the choice of walking 500 +/- miles for about 30 days or walking a bit over 100 miles in 11 days, I choose the latter. I feel so decadent, pampered. We walk and just when we get tired the bus is there and so is lunch and at the end of the day we are driven to our hotel (except for today where we actually walked to our hotel) where all the arrangements have already been made. Right by our hotel we pass a post that says in Japanese and we can't read all of it, but it says something about a loop in Shikoku and 88 temples. We knew right away that this was an act of friendship from the Japanese to Spain regarding the kinship of the two pilgrimages. We are so touched and warm that we have been able to appreciate both.

We are given our keys and all we have to do is bring up our luggage to our room. Dinners are in the hotel or close by and all the meals have been fantastic. Further, the information given on the tour is so thorough that we should get college credits...assuming we pass the final. It is a luxury that we are not accustomed to but we are enjoying it. I couldn’t imagine a better way to see Spain.

The Camino de Santiago is becoming more and more popular. There are so many walkers and each year the number grows. Fortunately, we have not been impacted by the increasing popularity. We do not have to fight crowds or worry about anything except our own stamina to finish each day. Everything is good and Emi and I cannot be more thankful that we have had this opportunity to be here on this tour. I may hate tours in general but I love this one in particular.

Day 4 on the Camino

October 5, 2009

It was our longest day of walking, about 12 miles, but it was a good day for walking. There was a threat of rain, but it never happen. It was just cloudy and breezy which kept the day cool, perfect weather to walk and the dramatic clouds kept the scenery intersting.

At 2 pm we did our usual stop for lunch at a spring. Lunch is always great, a unique and very Spanish salad, the cheese of the area, ditto for the bread, ditto for the olives, ditto for the ham, cookies, and fruit juice. There is always enough for everyone and one can go back for as much as you want.

Now for a subject to make you lose your appetite, sort of the ying and yang of this writing. Nature called and since there were no bathrooms I walked away from the crowd, over the creek, down the road, and behind the trees and lo and behold I entered the formal/informal bathroom. It was like entering a third world country. Piles and piles of you know what with the toilet paper to accompany the mess lay on the ground to dry in the hot Spaniard sun. It is so sad that there is a real lack of facilities on the camino. Something should be done.

Our lodgings for the night is a converted monastery now a hotel. It is very nice but strange. There is an inner courtyard with the rooms all around. Attached is an older monastery and next to that is a cathedral. We can walk through either monastery and we do, after dinner. It was rather dark, very eerie, and rather spooky. No one was there; the hotel rooms are located in another section of the complex. Further the lights flicker and will turn off when you pass some unseen control. I told Emi that we had to do it; it would be fun. It wasn’t. I kept thinking of that reality show where they search for spirits and such. I’m only glad that I’m here to write about it. Then again I’d be the first to admit that I’m just a natural born chicken.

Day 3 on the Camino

October 4, 2009

I didn’t write on this day. I guess that I was tired. It’s amazing that I can say that because in comparison we are not walking anyway near as much as when we were in Shikoku but I am still tired. It’s all relative really. There is tired and then there is exhaustion and here we are just tired, really tired. It makes me think of the scene out of Lawrence of Arabia where El Orance puts out a lighted match with his fingers and his companion asks him how he does it. “What’s the trick?’ he asks. Lawrence replies, “The trick is not minding the pain”. So we hurt; everyone hurts, but the trick is not to give in to the pain.

On this day our hotel is across from one of the largest cathedrals in Europe. It looms as a large object right outside our window. We tour the same cathedral after checking in and washing up. Nancy is not allowed to lead us. A Spaniard takes us around. He is funny but he is not our beloved Nancy. The place is huge. There are over 20 chapels within the structure. Quasimodo occupies several. Later that night we attend mass to hear a special performance from a special choir. It is very beautiful and inspiring. I half expect Charleston Heston to appear dressed in red robes, carrying Jean Simmons in his arms.

The night is a free night and we must once again fend for ourselves. Everyone is tired so we do not do another Pincho night but choose a sit down restaurante. We order two kinds of Paella and casa de tinto y blanco. It is good and our little group is happy.

Our informal group consists of Steve & Hope, a couple from Los Altos, their neighbor, Paula, who has since returned to her birthplace of Oahu, and Robert, who lives in New York City. It was coincidental, but understandable when the ladies (4 ladies from Florida) and a couple from the East coast appeared at the same restaurant. They were tired too and chose the nearest sit down restaurant that Nancy had recommended.

The night of October 2

We just got back from dinner. It wasn’t quite dinner, not exactly, more like your ordinary night of debauchery. Tonight was a free night. In other words we were on our own and of course that meant trouble. After receiving a map and a list of Spanish to English translation only regarding food, our guide/mother turned us loose to fend for ourselves. Emi and I ended up with four other tour members and we hit the town of Logrono, specifically the tapas area. Only in this part of Spainish tapas are called pinchos. The area was hopping. It was a Friday night and that means TGIF in Spain as well as home. Of course you understand that the night life here doesn’t start until past 9pm. I’ve read and heard about that, but I was still amazed to find it to be a truth. No matter. I had had a short nap, and so I was rejuvenated and ready for anything. I quickly formed a plan. There were 6 of us and that easily translated to 6 rounds of pinchos and drinks (cerveza and tinto, red wine). The plan was quickly approved and I started the night by ordering octopus cooked in olive oil. When we finished consuming the eight legged cephalopod, down went the paper towels unto the floor as the custom and onward to the next pincho bar specializing mushrooms with shrimp. Oyster mushrooms cooked in olive oil followed. Then skewered beef. Then chorizo. And gelato ended the night. It was a short walk back to the hotel and we all made it without falling. It was like a grand street party. People were eating and drinking inside and out. Music was being played and people were dancing in the streets.
Our little group bonded and became like a group of life long friends. The night was so unexpected, so wonderful. It was one of the things that make traveling so much fun. It was an event that I couldn’t duplicate even if I wanted to. Only in Spain.