October 3

October 3

We left our packs and did an “easy” stroll, 19 miles, out to the farthest Southern point of Shikoku. In the beginning it was actually cold. That lasted about 15 minutes. Then it was just right for 30 minutes. And then it rained. We had left everything back at our lodgings, and were completely unprepared for the rain. Fortunately it never came down hard. I prayed that it would clear up and when it did, I cursed the return of the hot sun. It's the nature of man...never satisfied. So it was a 6 and a half hour walk out to Ashizurimisaki and a hour and half bus ride back. Can you believe that it was tiring just riding the bus back?

A little dis 'n dat

They have these henro rest stations where one can rest and even sleep. What surprises me is that some does not come with water or bathrooms. One in particular was off a mountain trail and it looked more like a goblin's lair than a place for a human. I'm sure if you went in you'd never come out. A large percentage of the henros are recent college grads and they are doing it on the cheap. They stay at these free resting places. One of the popular sites are certain railroad stations that allow henro “camping”. They area tough bunch. Their packs are twice as big as ours. One friend henro, Yuya, talked about his night lodgings, a bench, and how he had to scare off a dog in the middle of the night. Emi and I stay in our lodgings and complain how much we have to endure. We're softies compared to them and I'm proud to say it.

You'd better like fish if you visit Japan for a long period of time. It is fish, fish, and more fish. You'd think we're a pair of penguins. Most of the dinners come with 3 or 4 dishes of fish like sashimi, tataki, kamaboku, and broiled fish with sauce. By the end of the trip we just might be growing scales over our bodies.

You need to learn a few key kanji words to use the bathrooms in Japan starting with washing hand, convenient place, and make up room, all names for a bathroom. And of course you need to know men and women. The flush can either be big or small. And for me, I look for the “western” toilet.

Talking about toilets: there is one more toilet story I have to tell. I don't know how you women use the facility wearing a dress. My wearing a yukata makes using a toilet almost impossible. Getting my yukata out of the way feels like I'm gathering in a sail, a parachute, a flag. It's yards and yards of material that I must get out of the way. The first time that I used the toilet with the luxurious ass washer (excuse mt French) I was so embarrassed because I got my yukata wet. I don't want to sound macho but I'd rather pull down my pants than hitch up my yukata.

We took the bus back from Ashizurimisaki. Yes you heard right. It was either that or walk 19 miles out and then back. Didn't want to do that. My mother didn't raise a fool. The bus ride back was a true “E ticket ride”. The roads are narrow and the bus is a bus. I wanted to sit on the outside so I could get a better view. Bad mistake. I was so scared that I actually squirmed away on more than one occasion. The drop looked more than vertical, as if there was a undercut to the road. Looking out all I could see was the view straight down, not a hint of a road. I said a prayer or two I must confess.