Octoer 11

October 11

Today we walked up to Temple 44, Daihoji, and 45 Iwayaji. It was sort of one big loop and so we came back to where we started. Because of this we could leave our stuff at the ryokan that we are staying at for 2 nights. We are now on ground that we had covered before, but most of the route seemed completely new to me. The one place that both Emi and I remembered was a long grade on the road. We both remembered how tired we were when we were last there. All in all it was a fairly easy day. We drenched our clothes in sweat as usual but we only walked 15 miles and without our packs. It was still no stroll through the park. We got back before 3pm, and now have time to relax (?). That would be a novel idea.

Some days ago we ran into another tunnel walking path; it's the no path path. There was only a narrow shoulder, some 18 inches wide or should I say narrow, without a line or anything. Only faith and good luck separated you from life or death. You know; I used to hate tunnels. It's a soft spot in my psychology. Tunnels activate my anxiety, neurosis, and imagination, but here in Japan I'm beginning to like tunnels even though it's going to collapse and bury us alive. I now like tunnels because it means I'm not going to have to climb over the friggin' mountain. I like tunnels because it keeps me out of the hot friggin' sun. I like tunnels because it keeps me out of the ever friggin' rain. See, even a psychotic can change given adequate incentives.

We have developed another group of henro friends. The first group was with us for a couple of weeks and then they all passed us or dropped out, or maybe we left them behind (ha ha). This new group has been with us for some weeks. Since we don't always know their names, we have named them ourselves. There is cap man, Kyoto man, cart man, architect man, and the young guy. We actually learned Kyoto man's name; his name is Nakao san. He's a real nice guy and he's always giving us advice. Unfortunately he will not be completing the walk at this time. In a few days he will be going back home. Parting is such sweet sorrow.

Even though I say the walk is not about the temples, there are times when a certain temple or a particular time, or a special situation will make the moment there magical. One year we were at the only temple built on a field of rocks. This unique setting makes the temple a bit more beautiful than most. It was early morning and we were the only ones there. The quiet was broken only by the sound of a bird or two. They didn't interrupt the sense of peace that I felt being there. This year the grounds were jammed with bus henros and no peace was in my heart. And today, while it was still early morning foggy, we walked into Daihoji. It was so still you could hear the fog swirl in the air. Exotic scenes shrouded in nature's veil it made me feel as if I was in a strange land...and I was. Ringing the bell only caused a ripple in the white mist but did nothing to interrupt the quiet solitude and peaceful feeling in our hearts.