I didn't write yesterday. I was just too tired; we were both too tired. We ended up walking 20 miles. To add to our grief, the temperature inched up a degree to 31 degrees. Last of all we went up and over two mountains. On top of the first mountain was temple 26.
We missed the henro michi, pilgrim trail, and walked up the road that twisted its way up the flanks. It took a arduous 45 minutes to get to the top. Resting at the temple a fellow henro gave us a map (like he knew that we needed one) and told us the trail to the temple was short, very steep but only 15 minutes of hell. I don't know if I believe him completely, nor do I want to. Walking down the trail was beautiful at times, dangerous at others with the possibility of slipping. The mosquitoes rejoiced that we choose the trail over the road. 
At the next mountain we decided to be pure of heart and decided to take the trail the entire way instead of staying on the “highway” that hugged the coastline. We met a henro michi volunteer working on the michi, and he said that there hasn't been any upkeep on the michi for 41 years and only now one can have the wonderful opportunity to traversed the old route that Kobodaishi traveled. I started to think, "Boy, are we lucky." And now that we've walked the trail, I'd like to give him a piece of my mind. It was a sweat drenching time going up and joint damaging on the way down, to the point that Emi's damaged ankle decided to go on strike. Thankfully, it got with the program after we got to level ground. The only happy ones on the trail were the mosquitoes that kept us company. It was like an hour of stairmaster effort in a sauna.
After that it was several more hours of walking. The last two hours my little toe blister started to act up, and each step reminded me of the mermaid that wanted to be human. You know where each step she'd take would cause her pain beyond compare. But my grief was nothing compared to Emi who had lost three toe nails some 3 or 4 days ago. When we got to the minshuku we had just enough time for the furo and then dinner. The total time walking for that day was about nine and a half hours, but who's counting. Did I say that before?
One moment of divine intervention occurred with 2 hours to go. A stranger saw us while entering his car. He drove to his home that was located further down the henro michi, and by the time we got there about 20 minutes later, he was standing outside with two glasses of ice tea. We were more buoyed by his act of kindness than the drink that was like water to a man stranded in the desert.
Today, the 23ed, we decided, had to, go easy, so we only walked 13 miles today. Breakfast was at 6am which gave us an early start...hah, hah. We left our bags at the minshuku, Kinsho minshuku in Yasuda City, for our route was up to the temple, Konomineji, and back on the same trail. It was an easy stroll 4km up, 4km down, Just an early walk to warm up for the day.
We arrived too early at the inn, Komatsu Ryokan, normal check in is 3pm, and so we waited around until 2:30 and Bogart our way in. It was an older inn, but even then they had AC and a good washer and dryer. It may have been a shorter day but even so we did walk for 7 hours. This was suppose to be an easier day in comparison. It's all relative.
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